A few weeks ago I went to my niece’s graduation from the University of Nebraska at Lincoln. We’re originally from Nebraska and a favorite part of going back to visit family is always indulging in the Czechoslovakian pastry known as a kolach. Saline County, Nebraska is home to a large Czech population that immigrated in the late 1800’s. Kolache (plural of kolach) are a staple pastry of the area. They consist of a sweet yeast dough that has a depression in the center that is filled with typically a fruit filling. While many fillings are used these days, the traditional tend to be those that were typically found in Czechoslovakia: Cherry, Apricot, Prune, and Poppyseed. Unlike a donut or danish, they’re not necessarily a breakfast item. They’re just something you have with coffee any time of the day.

It’s only been recently that I learned that kolach is the singular form of the word. I’ve only ever known/called them by the plural. I guess in part because I don’t think I’ve ever eaten just one at a sitting….I doubt you will either!

Anna Sysel’s Kolaches

Kolaches are a Czechoslovakian sweet yeast roll traditionally filled with fruit fillings.  Some of the more common and traditional fillings include cherry, apricot, poppyseed and prune.  Some people will also do cottage cheese with raisins or applesauce filling.  Saline county Nebraska where my family is from is the Czech capital of the U.S. and the town of Wilbur hosts a Czech festival every August where these are baked and sold by the hundreds of dozens.  This is the recipe my mother used.  She got it from Anna Sysel, my oldest brother’s 6th grade teacher who was apparently well known for her kolaches.

Notes on this Recipe:

• Evaporated milk provides a richer flavor than regular whole milk but whole milk can be used. I’ve used half & half as a substitute with great results (the higher fat content provides a great tender product).

• I typically use an equal amount of vegetable oil instead of shortening so that I don’t have to melt the shortening. I warm the milk slightly to help enhance the yeast growth and am ready to start mixing. Both vegetable oil and shortening will produce a more tender and moister dough because they are 100% fat. Substituting butter will produce a pastry that isn’t as tender and will dry more quickly.

• The original recipe calls for dividing into 24 rolls. I prefer a smaller roll so it’s not as filling to enjoy more than 1 flavor at a time. I divide the dough into quarters and then each quarter into 8 pieces to produce 32 rolls.

Yield:  Approximately 24 3” rolls

1 ½ cups evaporated milk

¾ cup vegetable shortening

½ cup + 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 cup cold water

1 ½ teaspoons salt

4 egg yolks, beaten

2 pkgs. Instant yeast (4 ½ teaspoons)*

Approximately 5 ½ – 6 ½ cups all-purpose flour

Canned fruit fillings of choice

Topping:

¼ cup all-purpose flour

¼ cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons cold butter

Place the milk and shortening in a 1 quart saucepan and heat over medium heat until the shortening is melted.  When shortening is melted, add the sugar and stir until dissolved.  When sugar is dissolved, pour the mixture into a mixer bowl and add the cold water and salt and stir to blend.  When mixture is barely tepid, add beaten egg yolks, yeast, and half the flour.  Begin mixing by hand until a dough begins to form.  Place the bowl on the mixer and mix with a dough hook, adding the remaining flour a bit at a time until a smooth, supple, moist dough forms. The dough should be moist but not tacky.  Knead for about 5 minutes or until smooth.  Remove dough from bowl and oil the bowl.  Place dough inside the bowl and turn over so that the oiled side is up.  Cover with a towel and place in a warm location to rise until doubled in bulk.

When dough has doubled, punch it down to release the trapped gas and knead for about 30 seconds to work out large air bubbles.  Cut dough into thirds.  Working with one piece at a time, roll the dough out to about ½-inch thickness and use a 3-inch diameter cutter or small glass to cut out circles of dough.  Combine and re-roll the scraps as necessary.  Place dough rounds on a parchment lined baking sheet about 1 ½ -inches apart.  Let the dough circles rise until an impression remains when you press on the center of the dough.

While dough is rising, make the topping by combining the flour and sugar until blended and then work in the butter until a sandy consistency forms.

When the rounds have doubled in size, use your thumb to push down the interior to make a well with a narrow rim of dough surrounding the depression.  Spoon the fruit filling into the depressions.  Sprinkle filling with the crumb topping.    Let rise for about 15-30 minutes.  Bake pastries at 400 degrees for 12 minutes (375 convection for about 10-11 minutes) or until lightly browned around the edges.  Brush the outer edges with melted butter when they come from the oven.

*If using active-dry yeast instead of instant:  Combine the same amount of active-dry yeast with ½ cup warm water and add 2 tablespoons sugar.  Set aside for 10 minutes or so while heating the milk.  Reduce the milk to 1 cup and reduce the sugar by 2 tablepoons.  Combine the yeast mixture with the milk and shortening mixture in the mixer bowl.  Proceed as directed.

Anna Sysel’s Favorite Kolache Filling:

1 14-oz. can applesauce

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

½ cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons butter

vanilla flavoring to taste

Combine all filling ingredients in a small saucepan and cook over low heat until thickened.  When cool, fill kolaces and garnish the tops with crushed pecans and cinnamon.  Bake as directed above.

Homemade Apricot or Prune Filling:

Dried apricots or prunes

Place dried fruit in a saucepan and add enough water to just cover the top of the fruit. Place on medium-low heat and cook until fruit is hydrated, soft and tender. If the water cooks away and fruit isn’t really soft and tender, add more water and continue to cook. The amount of water and cooking will be completely dependent on how supple the dried fruit is from the start.

When the fruit is soft and tender and most liquid is absorbed, transfer fruit and liquid to food processor. Add sugar to taste and adjust the taste with additional flavor enhancements as desired. Thin out fruit filling with a bit of water if mixture is too thick.

Flavor enhancement recommendations:

Apricot: A splash of orange juice or orange zest, almond extract

Prune: Add a bit of ground cinnamon and vanilla extract.