Actually it’s not… The better question would be: What do 14 chefs, a seaside resort, and a healthcare system have in common? Thankfully NOT a massive case of food poisoning!
It does however sound like “Delicious Destinations” an amazing food and wine event held each year to benefit St. Vincent’s Healthcare Foundation of the greater Jacksonville, FL area. St. Vincent’s HealthCare is a faith-based, not-for-profit health system that has served the people of Jacksonville and the surrounding communities for more than 91 years. Earlier this month I had the opportunity to once again (this was my second year) participate in “Delicious Destinations 2009: A Gourmet Food & Wine Tasting” held at the amazing Ponte Vedra Inn & Club in Ponte Vedra, FL
Chefs Dusty Grove & Darin Sehnert
I along with Chef Dusty Grove from the Mansion on Forsyth Park in Savannah, GA joined forces with 12 other chefs from various hotels, resorts and country clubs around Florida to prepare a gala food tasting event for 300 guests. Hosted at the Ponte Vedra Inn and Club, the evening featured each chef showcasing a dish from various international cuisines as well as a host of international wines generously donated by Southern Wines and Spirits. Silent and live auctions added to the excitement of the evening as did a live performance by legendary jazz pianist, Ronnie Kole.
This was the capstone concluding many different food and wine events that had been held throughout the week. The 2008 Delicious Destinations events helped to generate close to $500,000 for the St. Vincent’s Health system.
Assigned the “Italian” station, Chef Dusty and I served Crespelle Fiorentina all Gratinata (Spinach & Ricotta filled crepes glazed with Parmesan Cream Sauce) and Chocolate & Lavender Panna Cotta.
The crepes are a favorite dish of his that he learned while working with a chef in Florence Italy. The chocolate lavender panna cotta is a recipe I created a couple years ago for the “Chocoholic Frolic” event held in Savannah to raise money for breast cancer research.
Crepes are one of those items that people often love to eat but are afraid to try making themselves. I suppose it is the thin delicate nature, almost like a light gauzy handkerchief that suggests being impossible to all but the most seasoned cook. I’m not going to say that skill isn’t necessary, but a little practice will have you well on your way to a delicate pancake suitable for any variety of fillings! Chef Dusty was the brainchild behind doing this dish for the event however it wasn’t until the evening before when we’re prepping for 300 guests that he takes the time to say “yeah, I’m not the greatest at cooking crepes” Oh thanks for sharing that little piece of information now! Somehow I think that was meant as a casual way of saying “dude, guess who’s cooking the crepes???” Now mind you this was after he nearly had to skip going to the event because of several large groups we were expecting back at the hotel. Thankfully all worked out for the better and he was able to join me so he could make the item that HE suggested. I however was the one who had the joy of cooking crepes for 300 around midnight the evening before the event. Three non-stick sauté pans, a big vat o’ crepe batter, and a heat-safe rubber spatula helped me get 300 crepes turned out in just about 1 ½ hours. In all fairness it’s not like he stood idly by…he took over finishing portioning the panna cotta and filling the crepes as I kept flipping them onto a sheet pan. Still…I can’t help but recall the mocking tone in which he kept saying “hey…why’s your face so red?” LOL.
Tips to help you produce tender delicate crepes that would make Julia Child say “Bon Appetit”!
- A specific “crepe pan” is not necessary. A 7-inch non-stick sauté pan works just fine. Even a regular pan without non-stick coating can work just fine as long as it is well-heated and seasoned with clarified butter thoroughly before beginning to cook the crepes.
- The pan is heated properly when a few drops of cold water “dance” on the surface of the pan when sprinkled on it. If they immediately vaporize it’s too hot. If they just sit there and don’t dance, it’s too cool.
- Make sure that the milk and water in the recipe are at room temperature. If the milk or water are cold they will cause the butter to congeal and produce buttery lumps in the batter.
- Allow the batter to sit and rest for at least 1 hour after mixing. This is important as it will allow the starch granules of the flour to absorb liquid and “bloom” so that they hydrate and will help to produce a more tender crepe.
- If whisking crepe batter by hand I like to recommend straining it after the resting period to remove any lumps that might still remain.
Crespelle alla Fiorentina Gratinate
Yield: 8 Servings
For the Crespelle (crepes): These crepes are lighter than normal due to less flour and more butter.
8 eggs
1 ½ cups all-purpose flour
1 stick (8 tablespoons) melted butter
1 qt whole milk
Mix all of the ingredients in a medium bowl. In a non-stick fry pan, add enough oil to coat. Add 2 oz of crepe mix and coat the pan, pouring off excess. When you can see bubbles form in the batter, turn over and cook 45 seconds more. Place on parchment paper lined plate and repeat.
For the Filling:
1 10-oz pkg. frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry
8 oz. ricotta cheese
½ cup shredded parmesan cheese
1 tsp. ground nutmeg
Kosher and pepper to taste
In a medium bowl, mix all ingredients until well blended.
Bechamel Sauce:
¼ yellow onion, studded with 3 whole cloves
1 qt. milk
3 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons butter
Salt and white pepper
Ground nutmeg
¼ cup shredded Parmesan cheese
Place onion and milk in a medium saucepan. Heat scalded.
In a separate saucepan, melt butter and add flour, cooking just until a nutty bread-like aroma develops. Pour in a quarter of the milk and whisk vigorously to blend and create a smooth sauce. Add the remaining milk and cook until it thickens enough to lightly coat a spoon or spatula. Thin with additional milk if necessary. Add cheese and mix until melted.
For Assembly:
Spread a thin layer of béchamel sauce on the bottom of a baking dish or sheet pan. In the center of a crepe, add ¼ cup of the spinach mixture. Fold the crepe in half and then in half again to form a quarter circle. Place the filled crepe on the pan and repeat until pan is full. Do not overlap the crepes. Cover each crepe individually with about two tablespoons more béchamel sauce. Sprinkle with parmesan cheese and place in a 350 degree oven about 5 minutes to melt the cheese and warm through.
Panna Cotta
Panna Cotta is Italian for ‘cooked cream’. Offering a custard-like consistency, it’s somewhat unique in the sense that it is thickened with gelatin rather than eggs. As a result, I think it has a much “lighter” taste and palate sensation than crème brulee or other similar custards. It is often unmolded onto a plate but I prefer to serve it in glasses for both ease of serving as well as the height that it adds to the table and presentation.
- Chocolate Lavender Panna Cotta
Chocolate Lavender Panna Cotta with Port-Soaked Cherries and Port Wine Aspic
Yield: 8 servings (approx. 3-oz. each)
1 cup dried tart cherries
1 cup ruby port wine
1 cup milk
1 pkg. granulated unflavored gelatin
2 cups heavy cream
½ cup sugar
1 tablespoon dried lavender blossoms*
¾ cup chopped bittersweet chocolate
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Port Aspic:
Reserved port wine from soaking cherries plus additional if necessary to equal ½ cup
1/2 tsp. granulated unflavored gelatin
Garnish: whipped cream and dried lavender blossoms
Combine dried cherries and port wine in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer over low heat. Remove pan from heat and set aside until port wine cools. Strain cherries and reserve port wine for making the aspic.
Place ½ cup of the milk in a small dish and sprinkle with the unflavored gelatin. Set aside to allow gelatin to soften. Place remaining milk in a saucepan with the heavy cream, sugar and lavender blossoms. Bring to a simmer and remove from heat. Allow to cool for 15 minutes. Strain cream mixture into a 3 quart stainless steel bowl or clean saucepan. Place over low heat and add the softened gelatin and milk mixture. Whisk to dissolve and melt gelatin. Once mixture is smooth, turn off heat and add the chocolate. Whisk gently until chocolate melts and mixture is smooth and creamy. Stir in vanilla extract.
Set 8 martini glasses on a baking tray that will fit into the refrigerator. Divide port soaked cherries between the glasses and pour a 1/4 cup of the chocolate cream mixture into each glass. Divide remaining cream between the glasses. Place tray in refrigerator and chill until panna cotta is firm, about 2 hours.
Once panna cotta has set, pour half of the reserved port wine into a small dish and sprinkle with ½ teaspoon granulated unflavored gelatin. Allow to sit and soften for about 10-15 minutes. When the gelatin mixture is softened, place the remaining port wine in a small microwave safe dish and microwave until hot, approximately 25 seconds on high. Stir softened gelatin into the heated port wine and stir to dissolve gelatin until no granules remain. Spoon 1 tablespoon of port wine aspic over the top of each panna cotta and tilt glass to coat the surface evenly. Return to refrigerator until port wine aspic has firmed up.
Garnish with a dollop of whipped cream and light sprinkling of lavender blossoms.
*Available in health food stores or specialty grocery stores (often sold as “Lavender tea” in health food stores)
{ 4 comments… read them below or add one }
I don’t know If I said it already but …Excellent site, keep up the good work. I read a lot of blogs on a daily basis and for the most part, people lack substance but, I just wanted to make a quick comment to say I’m glad I found your blog. Thanks,
A definite great read..Jim Bean
I’m glad you found it too! Thanks for sharing your thoughts and comment. Keep reading and tell others about it too!
Chef Darin
Chef Darin,
I love everything about this, even if my face gets red while flipping out the crepes! Congrats on the recognition as one of the best chefs.
Is there a different ingredient for the spinach? I have started leaving it out of souffles, and everything else, but haven’t found a good substitute. It works in well, has great color, healthy, but I just don’t like it. Any suggestions, especially for so complex a dish as this one?
Thanks,
Betty A
Athens, Ga
Hi Betty!
If you’re not a fan of spinach then I’m presuming you’re probably not a fan of other greens. If it’s just a case that you don’t like spinach you could subsitute Swiss chard in place of the spinach. The spinach is just a part of the filling…adding bulk, flavor, fiber, vitamins, etc. You could leave it out altogether and just do a cheese filling but I think it would be a bit on the rich side then. Although instead of using a bechamel sauce you could then use a tomato sauce so you’d have cheese filled crepes baked in tomato sauce.
You could replace the spinach with sauteed mushrooms. If possible I’d use a combination of mushrooms and then season them with garlic and shallots while sauteeing (salt and pepper of course) and dried or fresh thyme. Deglaze the pan with some sherry or madeira wine and let that cook into the mushrooms. Cool and mix with the cheese mixture in place of the spinach.
The spinach in this recipe is not integral to the dish so it can be replaced with many different things or simply left out altogether. With fall on its way you might consider replacing it with roasted butternut squash (or pumpkin) and onions. Dice them into about 1/2″ chunks and then toss with olive oil, salt and pepper and roast until tender and slightly caramelized. Cool and mix with the cheese filling and proceed as in the recipe. For more flavor you could also first cut bacon into large chunks, render it out until crispy and then toss the squash and onions in enough bacon grease to coat before roasting. Then toss the cooked bacon in with the squash, onioons, and cheese. (Ooh…I’m making myself hungry thinking about this! If you try it, be sure to post here and let me know what you thought of it..)
In one of my “Fresh from the Market” classes we created “Ratatouille Crepes with Goat Cheese Bechamel”. I’ll send you the recipe directly.
Be sure to post here and let everyone know what alternatives you’ve tried and what you thought of them, especially if you find a favorite!
Keep reading and interacting!
-Darin
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